Croton, Red Batik (Codiaeum variegatum, 'Red Batik')

Also known as Joseph's Coat (referring to all crotons), or speckled croton (referring to the 'Batik' variety)

The following plant information was last updated on 3/16/2022.

Plant Type: tropical evergreen perennial shrub

Plant Family: Spurge family (Euphorbiaceae)

Visual Identification: Waxy, oblong leaves with bluntly rounded tips, arranged spirally around hard, woody stems. The leaves display a variety of colors in a speckled pattern, including red, green, white, orange, and yellow. The base color of matures leaves is primarily red. Flowers are white (male) to yellowish (female) in color. Seldom bloom indoors.

Native Region(s): Malaysia, Indonesia, Australia, and the Western Pacific Ocean Islands

Landscape Use: Hedge, windbreak, or as an annual in colder climates. Outdoor containers (3 gallon or larger, needs excellent drainage), especially in lower hardiness zones, in order to bring the plant inside during the colder months or whenever temperatures drop below 50° F. Attracts butterflies.

Height: 10 feet, in the wild. They are usually smaller in the garden or indoors, reaching 6 feet and 4 feet high respectively.

Spread: 3-6 feet

Spacing: 3-5 feet

Hardiness Zones: 9 or 10 to 11 (sources vary).  While these plants can be grown outdoors all year in frost-free areas, you may grow them in containers outdoors in 4a-11 if you plan to bring your plant indoors over the winter. The ideal temperature indoors is 70° F.

Hardy Down To: 50° F in containers, 30-40° F if established in-ground. Not frost tolerant.

Light: full sun to partial/dappled shade. For indoor use, place in a sunny location such as an eastern, southern, or western window. For the best leaf color, some direct sun and bright light are essential. An excessive amount of shade causes the leaves to drop on the lower portions of the plant.

Water: 1 inch per week warmer months, 1 inch every other week over the winter. Wilting young foliage may be a sign that your plant needs more water. Increase watering if the wilting coincides with hot weather, after checking to confirm the first couple of inches of soil is dry.

For indoor plants: In a low humidity environment (below 40%), mist the leaves once per week, or keep a tray of wet gravel near the plant. You can also run a humidifier near the plant, or place it in a brightly lit bathroom, near a sink, or in a crowd of other houseplants. Keep the soil evenly moist in spring and summer months. When the days begin to shorten again and through winter, water only when the first 1-2 inches of the soil feels dry. Water until water flows out of the bottom of the container.

Soil: rich, moist, well-draining soil with a neutral pH between 6.1 to 7.8 Other sources claim they prefer acidic soil in the range of 4.5-6.5 pH.

Maintenance: As an indoor plant: Gently wipe the leaves with a moist cloth twice a month to keep them clean and dust-free. Up-pot when it shows signs of nutrient-deficiency as a result of becoming root-bound, such as leaf drooping and yellowing leaves. The best time to repot this plant is in late spring, after new growth has matured.

Fertilize: fertilize sparingly, three (3) times per year, with a slow, time-released fertilizer. Apply the fertilizer a few inches away from the base. If the plant stops growing in fall and winter due to lower-light conditions, reduce or refrain from fertilizing.

Toxicity: The entire plant and its seeds are toxic. Cut stems produce a milky sap that may cause skin irritation (contact dermatitis) in some individuals.

Additional Resources:

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Red Yucca: Neither Red, Nor a Yucca

Image
When I first discovered seed collecting, one of the very first seeds I tried to harvest was that of the Red Yucca. I was attracted to the ease with which they could be identified and plucked from their flower spikes. The sheer number of seeds that can be found in just one pod is quite rewarding.  After doing a quick internet search on how to sow the seeds, I settled on the technique of
Read more

How to Propagate Ivy

Image
I recently had someone ask me how to propagate Ivy (of the Hedera genus). Now, I do run a business where plant propagation is about 4/5ths of the job, but am I going to gatekeep? HECK NO!  So let me tell you how to propagate Ivy! Propagation of ivy (as well as many other plants) is more successful during their time of active growth. Spring is a great time to take cuttings! Step 0:  Mise en place! (Gather your materials) nursery container(s) or a tray, with or without drainage (See: Step 1) potting media of choice (See: Step 1) sanitized cutting implement , be it scissors, shears or blade (See: Step 2) a shallow container of water rooting hormone powder  or equivalent (See: Step 3) a hole-poking implement , such as a chop stick or pencil a spray bottle  or plant mister filled with water Step 1: Prepare your propagation container Prepare sm
Read more

How to Grow Pride of Barbados from Seeds

Image
Store your seeds in a cool, dark place until you are ready to germinate them. There's a little trick to getting these seeds to sprout quickly. The technique involves soaking the seeds for at least 48 hours in water. I’ve personally had success with adding water at tea-steeping range (195° F). I’ve known other gardeners to pour in fully boiled water (212° F). It is also perfectly fine to plant the seeds directly in soil without following the numbered steps below. Sprouting may take longer, but they will germinate once the soil temperature regularly reaches 75-80° F. 1. Add your seeds to a heat-safe container such as a glass jar, coffee mug or thermos.  2. Fill your container with the heated water.  3. After 24 hours, pour off the water and refill with fresh, heated water for the second 24-hour period of soaking. The seeds are ready when they have approximately doubled in size and the seed walls are no longer rock hard. A second soaking is not necessary if the seeds have already ex
Read more